Post from Jajce, Bosnia
Elliott and I are traveling in the Balkans (former Yugoslavia) this August. We went to Dubrovnik, Split, Hvar, and Zadar in Croatia last week. Today we went to Plitvice lakes, which is an incredible series of lakes in the mountains surrounded by rain forest (yeah, it was weird to see rain forests in Europe).
Then our hotel owner Damir drove us across the border to Bihač in Bosnia. We had to stop for a few minutes at one point to wait for mine sweepers to finish checking a spot by the road. A bit later we drove through a deserted town which Damir told us was an old Serbian village – The townspeople had fled during the 1990s war (it’s very close to Croatia), and now most of them are afraid to come back because there are 12 unexplained Croatian deaths. We took a bus from Bihač to the medieval mountain castle town Jajce, seat of power of the ancient Bosnian kings. One wall of the house we are staying in is a thousand year old stone tower.
Interesting trivia – The medieval Bosnian kings didn’t like Christianity very much, so they converted the entire country to a primitive religion called Bogomil around 600 AD. When the Turks conquered Bosnia in the 1400s, the people didn’t care much about their old-fashioned religion, so thez were easily converted to Islam. Ergo, By the early 1900s, almost the entire country was made up of ethnically European Muslims. Even after being killed in vast numbers in WW1, then again in WW2, and in the mid 1990s, Bosnia and Hercegovina is still the only country in Europe with a Muslim majority.
Forgive the lack of links – it is really tough to make them on this shit keyboard. Wikipedia anything you’re interested in.